Ho Chi Min City Day 1

Well I have arrived at my last stop.
The train pulled in at 5, and I had a good sleep. I took a taxi to the hotel district and had a room by six. I took a shower and did a laundry. By 8 I was walking. My first stop was a local market. I will have no problems finding coffee. Tee shirts areless than  two dollars.
I  blew four bucks on  baguette with an egg and smoked salmon, plus coffee in aluxury restaurant.
After breakfast I walked to a Hindu temple. This was an active one with people worshipping. Quite different from a church. There are 2 small rooms, holding no more than adozen people, and crowded with statues of gods. The smaller room was dedicated to the God of Hell with some carved wood panels depicting all the wonderful things to expect if you aren't good. Some things are common to all religions.
After that uplifting experience I went to the War Remnants Museum. This is a collection of military equipment left behind by the Americans. It is a very one sided history of the atrocities committed by the Americans and the South Vietnamese.  It is amazing what civilized people are capable of.
There was a room showing the birth defects caused by Agent Orange. The lucky ones weren't born.
I had to leave, I started to cry.
To add to an already depressing day, when I returned to my hotel, the power in the entire district was off. No elevator, no AC, no fan. It was 35 outside, hotter inside. I went for another walk.
By 4 the power was back on, and I enjoyed a couple of hours of rest, and, of course, another shower.
In the evening I went to the local market. This is in a building a full city block, filled with , literally a couple of hundred stalls, selling everything you can think of, souvenirs, fruits, vegetables, fish, meat, and even coffee. EUREKA!!!
On the outside the walls are lined with more stalls.
The interesting thing that happens occurs at 6 pm. All the stalls close, and the ones on the outside are actually completely dismantled. Within minutes, new stalls move in, in addition to many restaurants. This is the "Night Market". It is an absolutely amazing sight. By 6:30 everything is ready. All the restaurants cook by propane stoves or charcoal BBQ's.
I had supper on the way back to the hotel. A lady had a small pot, filled with burning charcoal. She had a small hand held grill. She would place a round piece of rice paper, the size of a tortilla, on the grill. She would break a couple of quail eggs, and add a few things, like basil, other greens, and substances I don't have an idea what they were. She folds it over, and hands it to you on a piece of newspaper. 25 cents...delicious.
On the sidewalk next to her was another lady. She would take a piece of yellow rice paper, add some pastes, a couple of boiled quail's eggs, some greens, and then she would roll it up. She would cut the roll into 1 inch pieces, and serve it in a baggie. 25 cents, also delicious. I had a couple. Supper for less than a dollar.
When I first arrived in Vietnam, I was very careful not to eat vegetables washed with local water. After I saw the way the dishes I ate from were washed, I decided, the hell with it, I am eating all veggies. I think I am almost ready to drink the local water, but I don't want to tempt the gods too much.
3 more days...
Ralf

Ho Chi Min City Day 2

After my experience at the War Museum yesterday I almost decided against going to tour the Cu Chi tunnels, but I decided to go anyway.
These tunnels are about an hour and a half's drive from the center of the city. They were originally built in the 1940's in the war against the French. At that time there were about 50 km of tunnels. During the war against the Americans they became a major battlefield, and were expanded to a couple of hundred miles, and went down 3 or 4 levels. The Americans were unaware of these tunnels, and actually built an army base on top. They couldn't figure out how their soldiers were shot in their tents in the middle of the night. They tried to eradicate them over the years, and the area became the most bombed area in the war. One article stated that more bombs were dropped here, by the Americans,  than in the entire WW2. The ingenuity is amazing.
The tour shows how they were constructed, and hidden. At one stop a soldier demonstrated how they were entered. There is an opening, about half a meter square, with a top, covered by leaves. You squeeze down, holding the top over your head, and then replace the top after you are in. We were allowed to try it. I volunteered, and barely squeezed in. What they didn't tell me was that at the bottom there was a step, and then a sloping floor. I missed the step, and POOF, I was gone. "The Case Of The Amazing Disappearing Canadian". Luckily I didn't hurt myself, except my ego, but I did have to be pulled out.
We were also allowed to go down another tunnel, and travel 100m to the next opening. These tunnels are half a meter wide, one meter high. The Viet Cong would "duck walk", which is not easy. The tunnel is not straight. There are 3 levels to this one, and numerous turns. These are the original tunnels, but a few lights have been added. Most of the time it is pitch black. Our guide told us that if we couldn't continue there were side tunnels, where you could see daylight, which would allow us to get out early. I have to say that those were the longest 100 m of my life. I made it, duck walking, crawling, but I did do it. You have to remember that the temperature was 38, and this is in a jungle. I was never so happy to see sunlight again. Our guide was impressed, he said that we were the first group where everyone completed the tunnel tour. I also have to say that I was at least 25 years older than anyone else on the tour.
I got back to the hotel at 3, and spent several minutes in the shower. I was absolutely filthy. I did a laundry, but I think a lot of my clothing from this trip will be retired, permanently.
After a couple of hours rest I decided to see the Saigon river, and walk along its "promenade". What a misnomer. The river is a sewage drain; there is a lot of construction, and nothing but slums along the way. Not the things you see in the tourism videos.
My body is aching and I am out of painkillers, so I stopped at a "pharmacy" to buy some more. The lady spoke no English, and it is difficult to get the concept of "excruciating pain" across, in sign language. I curled up on the floor, in a fetal position, and I think that worked. I ended up buying a couple of different ones. The first one turned out to be an Alka Seltzer type. By 1 am I woke up, still in pain. I took several of the others, and they seemed to work. I went to sleep at 3.
I bet you don't get to do all THESE wonderful things when you join a tour.
Ralf

Ho Chi Min City Day 3

I woke up at 5, and decided to go for a walk. It was embarrassing, because when I went to the lobby I found out that two of the staff sleep there at night. I already had woken them up, so they let me out.
The morning was nice and cool, 27, and only 90% humidity. I almost went back to get a sweater.
The other thing was that after I had walked a few meters, two young attractive ladies pulled up beside me, and asked if I wanted a massage. I declined, but the one in the back got off, and started to walk beside me, trying to explain all the things I would be missing. She walked arm in arm with me, and grabbed me the crotch, and gave it a squeeze.
Best sex I've had in a month.
We parted company, and I had a good strong coffee to settle my nerves.
I enjoy my morning walks, the city is waking up, people are busy setting up their businesses. It is amazing. There is a lady where I got my coffee. She was serving at 6 am. I saw her last night at 8 pm, still working. Makes for a long day, particularly in this heat. When I was in Hanoi there was a lady making and selling egg rolls on the side walk. She was about 7 months pregnant, and sat on her stool from 6 in the morning until 7 at night, depending on business. She had enough material for making a certain number of egg rolls, and she worked until all the material was used up. I never walked past her spot near my hotel without seeing her.
After breakfast I decided to walk to "China Town" in Saigon. The temperature was a balmy 35, and it was sunny. It was a long walk, about 75 minutes. I judge the heat by the amount of time it takes for my shirt and underwear to be completely soaking wet. Wet enough to wring out. In the morning it took 15 minutes. By late morning it only takes 5 minutes.

China town is supposed to be interesting with some nice old pagodas. I have discovered that places of worship are quite different here. Our churches are basically clean, spacious, and quiet. The pagodas in Saigon are quite small, I don't think they would hold more than a couple of dozen people, and anything but clean. Worshippers were at different altars, praying, and burning incense. They believe that their wishes rise up in the smoke of the incense, and are heard by their ancestors. I guess the only time there would be a large gathering would be for feast days. The cleanest site, by far, was the mosque.
China Town, itself, was no cleaner. A lot of garbage, slums, and kitsch for sale. There is a large market which sells wholesale. If you want to buy 100 rubber sandals, or 100 hats, this is the place to go.
I took a taxi back to the hotel. I couldn't face another 1.5 hour walk.
I had trouble falling asleep after dinner, so I walked to the Night Market, and ran into a retired American who I had run into in both Hue and Hoi An. We had a couple of beers, and watched the "ladies" of the night in action. They come in pairs, on a motorscooter. We didn't see any "sales", so I don't know how it works. Maybe its like they say "You aren't a true Canadian unless you've made love in a canoe". "Maybe you aren't a true Vietnamese unless you've done it on the back of a motor bike"
The traffic in Saigon is actually scarier than in Hanoi. In Hanoi the streets are usually only 2 lanes, and there are very few cars. In Saigon the roads are wider, up to 6 lanes, and there are a lot more cars, trucks and buses. It is especially "fun" at night. You walk across an intersection, and, if you look up, you will see 50 headlights coming straight at you. For the sake of clean underwear I don't even look anymore. You start to walk, and hope to hell that one of those bikers isn't really angry.They just weave around you like a ballet. It is amazing. When I get home I am going to try U-tube to see if anyone has posted videos of pedestrians crossing the road.
Tomorrow is "Homecoming" and I am anxious. The food has been great, but I miss MY CHEESE. There is no cheese made in Vietnam. None. The only cheese you can buy is a processed Swiss made. The type that comes in a round box, with 8 little triangule sections. Very insipid, but it's the only game in town.
The Vietnamese also like their sweet stuff. I bought a hot dog from a street vendor. When you buy a hot dog, you buy a hot dog. It'd a small wiener on a skewer. No bun, no condiments. And it's sweet. One was enough.
I also tried their pepperoni sticks. Looks like a pepperoni stick, but it's sweet. Not my taste.
They have a lot of pork, but they don't seem to make sausages.
The fruit, on the other hand, is outstanding. Nothing is imported, so it is smaller, but much more flavourful. The pineapples and bananas are about a third the size, but with much more flavour. I guess it's like comparing Ontario strawberries, to the stuff that's imported from Mexico. I have had several different types of oranges, mangoes, bananas, watermelons, and others I have never seen before. One of my favourites in Jack Fruit. Delicious.
Anyway The Adventure is almost over. Time to start working on the photos.
Have fun
Ralf

The Long Flight Home

It was a long journey home. I didn't get any sleep for 45 hours, but I did arrive safe and sound in Toronto on Saturday afternoon.
I did a lot of reflecting while I was waiting in air terminals, and I have to admit I am somewhat overwhelmed by my experiences over the last month.
Vietnam was not what I had expected. My expectations were that there would be a lot of natural beauty, and a lot of history. The lasting impression that will stay with me is not one of natural wonder, but one of the Vietnam people.
I gained an awe and a great admiration for the Vietnamese. particularly the North Vietnamese. I have never met a group of people that worked as hard and with a Stoicism that I really appreciated. I saw a lot of places where you could drink beer, but in the entire month I spent in Vietnam I did not see one single drunk. I didn't see a homeless person, I didn't see my first beggar until I reached the South. I didn't see one case of road rage, and with Vietnamese traffic that is a miracle in itself. I didn't see one example of an argument, never mind a fight.
They accept life as it is, and it is a tough life, and they smile.
I will always remember my 3 hour walk on my trek in Sapa, where a Black H'mong lady adopted me. As we walked along a tricky path she became my guardian angel. She would take my hand and lead my along the difficult parts of the path. She would tell me where to put my feet to remain safe. As we walked along she pointed out edible plants. We would stop, she would pick a plant and show me what parts to eat. How many people can recognize a cardamon flower, and know what parts are edible? It has a very pleasant, quite distinct flavour. When we would come across a poisonous plant she would act out a death dance. When she told a joke, she would start to laugh, and poke me in the ribs, so I knew when to laugh. The entire trek she told me about her life, she pointed out features of the land, in a soft, lilting voice. All in her dialect. I didn't understand a word she said, but I loved her for sharing her life with me for 3 wonderful hours.
Another time I was at the Ho Chi Min Mausoleum, when a group of about 60 or so girls came along. They all wore identical Vietnamese dresses. This outfit consists of a pair of loose fitting long pants, and a different coloured plain long dress over it. The dress has two slits up to above the waist, to allow movement. This group of girls all had white pants, and saffron coloured tops. They all had that lithe Vietnamese body, and as they moved along, as a group, I was awestruck with their beauty and grace. It was like a dream. I felt that if I were to touch one, they would all disappear, and I would wake up. the phrase "Poetry in Motion" would be a perfect example. When Europeans think of angels they think of chubby babies with wings. When I think of angels it is Vietnamese girls, moving with a grace and beauty that is almost indescribable.
As I said before the Vietnamese character is what impressed me most on this journey.

I have been asked a few times why I travel the way I do.
There are several explanations. I have to admit one is simply testing whether I still have the physical and mental ability to do these trips. I am in my 70th year, and this was, both physically and mentally a challenging experience, but I did what I set out to do, and that makes me feel good about myself.
I enjoy travelling with other people, but a solo trip is special. When I travel with other people my "teacher" takes over. I become a guide, and I try to make the journey as pleasant as possible. The agenda becomes their agenda.
When I travel solo, the only person I have to please is myself. I do the things that I want to do. I enjoy getting up at 5, and walking the streets, or visiting the local market. I sit and observe how people get ready for another day. I become a fly on the wall. I enjoy a cup of coffee or Pho, and just soak it all in. I don't want a photo, I want to absorb in the experience.  I don't want a specific scene, I want to remember a feeling. Not a lot of people enjoy doing that.
I am also adventurous when it comes to food. Most of my meals on this trip were street food. There were many times I didn't have a clue what I was eating, but 99% of it was excellent. Luckily I have a stomach that seems hardy.

When I travel solo I don't have to please anyone else, I don't have to worry about how they are enjoying themselves; there is a lot less pressure.

The other thing is that it allows me to think. It is similar to removing yourself from your life, and observing it from the outside of the box. It lets me see the "ruts" in my life. It encourages me to change things. It is almost like being reborn, to a small extent.

I also, always, gain a much greater appreciation of how fortunate I am. I have a loving family, that I love dearly, and that I am very proud of; I have a fantastic group of friends.
I am truly a privileged man, and I don't appreciate all these things, unless I go away, and start to miss these things.

I hope you have enjoyed my ramblings these last few weeks, as much as I have enjoyed writing them. Please feel free to send me any comments. I am working on organizing my photos, and posting them on a web site. I will let you know when they are ready.

Till then ADIEU, it's been great.

Ralf