Feb 11 Still in Jodhbur

Today was a day of R&R.
I had a nice cup of my coffee and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast on the roof top.
The rest of the morning I walked the old town. If it weren't for the taxis and cars you could be back in the middle ages. There are still public pumps where water is distributed. Freshly milked milk is sold out of big canisters, by the ladle. No homo milk here.
There are Internet cafes, but also places where you can rent a manual typewriter by the hour. A lot of tailor shops, still using manually powered Singer machines. No electricity.
I think today was the first day I didn't visit a temple. Hindu and Jain temples are quite different from our churches. Aside from one huge temple in Delhi none of the temples have large interior spaces. They are all divided into small rooms, like chapels, each dedicated to its own deity. And there are a multitude of those; elephant gods, monkey gods, and so on. In front of every temple are stalls where you can purchase flower garlands, and other offerings. These are offered at the individual altars. Sometimes a priest will conduct a service for a group of people, lots of chanting, bell ringing and incense.
In every place I have visited there are dozens of temples and shrines, some just a niche at the side of a building, others much larger.
There doesn't seem to have been the same sense of competition as European cathedrals, where they were definitely status symbols; you know "our cathedral is bigger than yours"
Indians do have festivals several times a year where large groups gather, but the rest of the time visiting temples and shrines seems to be a personal act.
They do have some weird ones. I mentioned the "rat" temple before. Near Jodhpur is another odd one. A few years ago a local smashed his motorcycle into a tree, and died. They took what was left of the bike to the police station. It disappeared from the station, and was found at the crash site the next day. They took it back to the police station, but, lo and behold, it once again went back to the tree. So they created a shrine, with the motorcycle at it's own altar and has become a place where travelers make offerings for safe travel.
To me it would make more sense using something that wasn't in a fatal accident.
We tend to make fun of stories like that, but Christians aren't any different. There is the story of St. James, the patron saint of Spain, who, more than a thousand years after he died, rode a horse out of heaven and helped the Christian army defeat the Moors. In just about every church in Spain is a painting of St. James the Moor slayer.
Let's talk about toilets. I was warned to expect the worst, but it not bad at all. It is true that every toilet, sit-down or hole-in-the-floor, has a tap and a bucket. If you want to clean yourself the Indian way you use your left hand, and rinse yourself clean. That's why it is a no-no to eat with your left hand. Having said that every hotel I have been in has provided toilet paper as an option. My left hand is still unused for that purpose.
I did have a pleasant experience today. I discovered a cafe that served a great cappuccino. It really was a good one.
Life is full of surprises.
Tatar

F 10 Jodhpur

I wish I could have shared last night with all of you.
I was sitting on the roof top of my guest house; the temperature was pleasant, I was listening to Leonard Cohen, and I had just talked to Sandy.
I was looking at the most magnificent fort I have seen on this trip. Mehrangarn Fort is a massive structure on a steep hill overlooking the whole area. The fort was built with stone from the hill, so it looks like a massive stone wall, all lit up at night.
It was a magical moment, and I realized how fortunate I am to be able to do a trip like this at this stage of my life.
Truly magical!
This morning the owner arranged for a tuk-tuk to do a city tour. There was another tourist, a lovely young lady from Edmonton, and we shared the cost of the taxi.
Jodhpur is a large city, but they have made an effort to clean it up. It shows, a lot less garbage, fewer cows. Actually pleasant.
We first visited a mansion, built in the 1930's. It is the home of the family of the last maharaja, and it is also a luxury hotel. Prices start at 800 dollars a night. There are 365 rooms in this palace. The grounds are immaculate, and, of course, the view is great.
We then visited a garden where there were cenotaphs from the 15th century on. Very peaceful and impressive.
It also was the first place where little kids were bothersome, but they gave up soon.
Stop 3 was a marble palace, another cenotaph. They sure know how to bury people.
Final stop was the fort itself. Fantastic. Many of the rooms were still furnished, and there were collection of weapons, paintings, carriages. All well displayed.
Jodhpur is called the Blue City, and from the ramparts of the fortress you can see why. Most of the buildings in the old part are painted a bright blue, and from the top it looks enchanting.
The young lady and I got along very well, it was nice to have a conversation. She is on a world journey. She started in Nepal, and after India she is off to Africa, North Korea, Vietnam, and then Russia and Easter Europe. Quite the adventure. We traded blogsites, and I am looking forward to following her blog.
Time for a hot shower.
Tata

Feb 9 Jodhpur

I took the bus from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur this morning. It was interesting because the bus was to leave at 8:15. By 8 there were a couple of people ready to board. I had bought a "sleeper" ticket, which gave me a 6 foot long, 2.5 wide and 3 foot high cabin. It had sliding doors and privacy curtains. The foam mattress was nice, and there was a pillow. By 8:30 we hadn't left, but a lot more people showed up, with their luggage. Because of the sleeper compartment there is no luggage rack, so it stays in the aisle. We left at 8:45, but made a couple of stops on the way out of the city. By the time we left, the bus was packed, and there wasn't even any standing room. I was very happy to have my private sardine can inside the bigger sardine can.
The bus ride took 5 hours, and I read my Kindle and slept.
Jodhpur is a big city, with another impressive fort. I am staying in a guest house in the old part, with a beautiful view of the fort from the roof top of the guest house.
I have a great room; it even has a foam mattress. The couple running the place are lovely.
I started to walk around, and spent a couple of hours at the market. This is, by far, the nicest and biggest market I have seen so far. The usual number of cows, but a lot to see. Jodhpur is noted for its spice market, and that is very colorful and aromatic. It's nice to smell something besides cow shit, urine, and exhaust fumes.
Till tomorrow

Jan 8 My last day in Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer's fort is different than any of the others I have seen. The forts in Agra, Jaipur, and Bikaner have all been turned into tourist sites. At one time they were all functioning forts, and they were mainly fortified cities. Once the British controlled the country, these forts remained in the private hands of the local princes. They started to use them as private residences and built palaces within the fortifications. In Agra, for example there were more than a dozen palaces in the fort.
Jaisalmer is different in that it is still a functioning town within the fortified walls. There are 3000 inhabitants living inside the walls, with numerous hotels, restaurants, and shops. There is one palace, and several Jain temples.
The fort sits on top of a triangular hill, with steep side all around. I would guess the perimeter is about 2 to 3 km.
All the buildings are made of sand stone, which is easily carved. The carvings in the temples and the houses are fantastic. Unbelievably beautiful, in their honey colours.
Another nice thing is that the lanes and streets are very narrow, they haven't changed for 400 years, so there is no car traffice, just the occasional motorcycle. It is actually peaceful and laid back. It's the first place where I have been able to browse without someone on your back.
I think I mentioned that there is a German bakery. I have shopped there every day; they make lovely brown bread buns, and cinnamon rolls.
The outside of the walls is full of shops of every kind. The problem is that they are all very small, and they all basically sell the same things. No variety. For example I have only seen one store that sold butter, and it was a1 lb size, not too convenient for me.
I should mention there are lots of stalls selling fruits and vegetables. Bananas, pineapples, apples, papayas, oranges, and grapes. I haven't seen a head of lettuce, or peppers, except for chili peppers, and beans. Some stalls will sell a fruit salad in a bowl. They have a variety of fruit, but also cucumbers and radishes. It took me about a week to try one, but I have been eating them regularly since.
Luckily I haven't had a case of Delhi Belly yet.
Tomorrow I am off to Jodhpur.
I should mention another "Indian" moment. I was at a restauranr in Bikaner, and one of the items on the menu was "Diet Cock"
Now there is an idea whose time has come.
Till later

Feb 7

I am still in Jaisalmer, and I am enjoying myself. I have decided to stay here an extra day, and catch my breath.
I lucked out with my hotel. This is the tenth hotel I have stayed at, and it is the nicest, by far. The owners are a couple, he is Indian, she is a Kiwi. They have been very helpful and it's been peaceful.
Yesterday afternoon I watched a camel tatoo, like a RCMP musical ride, only with camels. It was spectacular. The camels were decorated with very colourful pomoms, bells, even the tails were braided. The riders were as colorful as the camels. It was a great display of precision riding.
The only problem was the crowd. I have discovered Indians are quite pushy. When I am in line to buy a bus ticket, I have had people push right in front of me, push their money through, and order a ticket. The amazing thing is that no-one complains. This aggressiveness is how they drive, just plain nuts.
I have been stopped at several railcrossings. Rather than waiting in their lane, everyone drives up to the front. On a two lane road there will be four vehicles lined up. The same is on the other side. When the barriers go up there is a mad dash across, trying to get into the correct lane. It is hard to describe the experience.
Speaking of traffic I have not seen a set of traffic lights since Jaipur. And there it was only one. Everything depends on how aggressive you drive.
A couple of other observations. This part of India is flatter than the prairies; no rolling hills. It is desert country, miles and miles of brown earth, only scrub brush. Very, very few hills. The last time it rained was months ago. This explains why the further west you go the more camels you encounter. The camel is the beast of burden here.
Another thing that has struck me is the absence of what we would call a grocery store. Hundreds of stores line the streets, but they are all tiny; maybe 15 across and 20 feet deep. Some do sell the basics, like rice, out if big bags, and they all sell large cans, 15 kilos, of cooking oil. Trying to buy anything besides the basics is impossible. I did discover a "German" bakery that sold real bread. I have yet to see anything like cheese. Meat is also absent, there is a large Muslim minority, so no pork, and Hindus think cows are sacred, so no pork. The only meat is chicken, goat, or mutton. The chickens are pygmies. I have ordered half chicken a couple of times, and there was less meat than on a drum stick at Swiss Chalet. The sauces are good though.
I have spent a lovely afternoon on a roof top restaurant, sipping chai, which has nutmeg and cinnamon, looking out over the city and desert.
This is as relaxed as I have been on the entire trip.
Just lovely!!!

Feb 6 Jaisalmer

I met a couple of lovely American ladies from DC at breakfast at my hotel. We went to the Desert Festival together.

It was held at a stadium, and they had a special seating area for Foreign Tourists, right on the 50 yard line.

The first event was the camel decorating contest. The camels and their riders were spectacular. It was a real show. One of the Americans was asked to be a judge.

There were several other events. Some rather weird. There was one contest where camel riders dismounted. They took off the saddles and placed them about 20 feet to the back. Then they took their camel blankets and placed them another 20 feet back. Another 20 feet back they untied their turbans. Finally, at another 20 feet off came their trousers. So, starting in their underwear, at a whistle they raced to put on their pants, then their turbans, and so on. I am not sure how the winner was decided. It wasn't the first one on the camel again.

There also was a local game that looked like tag, only a lot more physical.

Then there was a camel polo game. Quite funny watching the camels romp around.

The highlight was a Tug-of -war, first pitting foreign men against Indian men. I actually had a spot on the team, but gave it to a Belgian, who was really keen on participating. The foreigners won 2 out of 3. Then came the ladies, foreigners against Indians. Both of my new acquaintances were on the team. After two hard fought pulls, they won. It was impressive.

Later this afternoon we are off to a Camel Tattoo. Sort of like a desert version of the RCMP musical ride.

Should be interesting.

There sure a lot of photos for me to sort once I get home.

Tata

Feb 5 Jaisalmer

I left Bikaner yesterday morning, and took a bus to Phalodia. All that was going was a local bus, very basic. None of these local buses are less than 40 years old, and they show it. The seats are cracked, the whole bus rattles continuously. Luckily it wasn't completely full, and I had 2 seats to myself.
I arrived in Phalodia in the afternoon, and spent the day walking around. I do like these smaller towns, no real hassles with salesmen. My hotel was another dump, but cheap. The only place the Lonely Planet recommended was 80 dollars, so I cheaped out again. The beds here are generally very hard, the matresses have given up on having any lift decades ago.
The reason I stopped in Phalodia was that it was near the village of Kachin. Kachin is the place where Demoiselle cranes winter. These are very graceful birds, about 75 cm tall, gre, with short peaks. They actually fly over the Himalayas from their breeding grounds in China and central Asia. The villagers have been feeding the, on a daily basis, for the last 150 years. There are supposedly several thousands, but my guess would be several hundred. At day break they swoop in and feed. It is quite a sight, and the noise is unreal.
After visiting Kachin this morning I took a bus to Jaisalmer. This happened to be a luxury Volvo bus and it was a world of difference from my other buses. The other interesting fact was that there were other Western tourists on this bus. On all the others I was the only foreigner.
Jaisalmer is as far west as I am travelling, and the reason I chose to go there is that the next three days there is the Desert Festival.
This afternoon I was in time to see the mustache competition, and the Mr. Desert competition.
It's like a county fair, rides, even things like corn on the cob, cotton candy and popcorn in addition to Indian specialities.
It should be a lot of fun, tug-of-wars, camel races, camel decorating, and fireworks.

I am looking forward to the next few days.
By the way the hotel I am staying in lovely, clean, quiet, and the even the bed is comfortable.
Till later