The last 3 days have been fun.
Smart thing. I went with a driver, and an English speaking guide. They were both were excellent, and I have to say driving here is not pleasant. I would say we averaged 40 km/h, over winding mountain roads. You never know what is around the next corner. You sound your horn, and hope. We met all kinds of things. My favourites were the water buffalo. They has the most world-weary woeful expression on their face; as they look at you in the middle of the road. It's almost like they are saying "And you think you have problems...". There are also families of ducks, waddling across, pigs, cows, and many many dogs. The dogs think they own the road. You have to sound the horn to get them to move. One couple of dogs were busy copulating in the middle of the road, with trucks, cars, motor bikes, and bicycles, going around them left and right.I guess they have their priorities.
The other thing you see hundreds of are motor bikes, and their loads. It sometimes is unbelievable. One time two trees seemed to be in the middle of the road. As we got closer a motorbike, with a 10 foot tree on either side came towards us. We saw bikes with several dozen chickens, 3 live pigs, 5 goats, all on the back. And that doesn't include the huge bags. I think the most priceless was a motor bike with a small horse, tied up, its legs in the air, on the back of a 110 cc bike. I got a picture of that one. Usually by the time you see one, they are gone, but the horse one was in a town.
We arrived in Ba Be NP in the afternoon. We had a "homestay", which means staying with a local family. It was in a small fishing village, overlooking the lake. At this time of year the water level is quite low. During the rainy season the water rises 2 to 3 meters, and sometimes higher. That is the reason all the houses are built on stilts. The bottom level is for staorage, and the higher level contains all the living quarters. The house is about 30 by 30 feet, and is one large room. Curtains are used to partition off the rooms. Furniture is basic; for everyone. My room had a mattress on the floor, and a mosquito net. There was also a large deck, overlooking the water.
Most Vietnamese families live together. When a son marries his wife moves in with him. There is no welfare system and so the younger generation provides for their parents. The family we stayed with had on older couple, their so, his wife, and two small children.
We had a great meal, cooked by the son. It was the best meal I have had in Vietnam so far. The way they cook their vegetables is fantastic. I can't wait to try some of the things I have eaten, once I get home.
In the evening we sat on the deck, drinking tea. I must say I haven't got used to their tea, or their coffee, so far. The tea is served in cups that hold about 1 ounce. After a while it becomes lukewarm, very strong, and bitter. I imagine crocodile piss would taste like this.
It was a lovely evening, very similar to what sitting up north at a cottage would be like. It is jungle country, lots a crickets and frogs. To make it more authentic, there were even the odd mosquito. The house has no screening, so it must be fun during the evening. The mosquito netting certainly is need.
At 8 all the electricity in the village went out. It could be very romantic, but not when you are travelling alone.
The next morning the rooster sounded the alarm at 5:22, and before six the women were doing laundry in the river.
The father served pancakes, made with rice flour, milk, eggs and water. It was served with local honey. Very tasty.
In the morning we did a boat ride on the lake. The lake is quite beautiful, surrounded by mountains, covered by jungle. I would have loved to do it in a canoe. (The lake)
Then it was back in the car for another long winding road trip. We visited a couple of small villages, and my guide explained the process of growing rice. Very labour intensive, and the whole family works at it. The farmers here have no safety net, provided by the government. No crop, starvation. A very tough life.
We visited another village, higher in the mountains, too high for rice. Here they farmed corn, beans, and other greens. Each village, in addition to farming, has a specialty. One that we visited made knifes. Everything is done by hand. Many of the building still use straw and mud construction. The floors are packed dirt.
Another village specialized in making incense sticks.
The family we stayed with that day was a middle class family in a small town. The have quite a large house. The main floor is cement floored, and has a living room at the front of the house, a kitchen, and bathrooms. The sleeping areas are on the second floor. Again the furniture is simple. A mattress, mosquito net, that's it. Again the family consisted of an older couple, their son, his wife, and a beautiful young daughter. Once again the food was great.
I slept quite well those two nights.
The next morning breakfast was noodle soup with duck. Pho, the Vietnamese soup, is the national dish, and they eat it all day long, and I have yet to have one that wasn't fantastic. Another item for my menu list.I think Sandy can retire from the kitchen.
We then drove on to Ban Gioc waterfalls, through some mountainous, and spectacular scenery. Ban Gioc is Vietnam's largest waterfall, and half is in China, half in Vietnam. It was beautiful, and I took my 50 pictures.
There are very few tourists in this area. I think over the 3 days in the north I saw a total of fewer than 10. And, again, there isn't one postcard of this scenery.
After we left the falls, it started to drizzle. The evening was spent in the provincial capitol, Cao Bang. It was different being in a hotel again.
Sunday was rainy, not hard, but it was foggy, and actually quite cool. It took us all day to get back to Hanoi. 285 km, and it took us 7 hours of driving.
I think tomorrow will be a day of rest.
I hope everyone had a Happy Easter
Ralf
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