Doing the Sapa Hustle

I left Hanoi on the 9 pm train to Sapa. The train was quite long, about 20 cars. Most cars are privately owned. My car is owned by the Pumpkin Tourist Agency and was quite nice. Two bunk beds. The couple in my car was a couple in their thirties, originally from Bulgaria. She is a lawyer with the UN, living in Copenhagen, he is in managment with a perfume company, stationed in Singapor. We had a nice talk before we went to sleep. There is a 45 minute drive from the train station to Sapa. Part of this 99 dollar tour included breakfastst the Pumpkin Hotel, in Sapa, and a chance to take a shower. I has signed up for a 2 day, 3 night tour. On Thursday I would walk, with a guide, to several villages, and stay overnight at one. Friday was another hike, then a ride back to Sapa, and the train back to Hanoi.
The Bulgarian couple had been told this was not possible, and they would have to stay at the hotel in Sapa. When I told them about my arrangement they tried to change theirs, but were told "Not possible" After quite a discussion, it "Became possible".
We set off with our guide on a hike I will long remember. I am used to the Bruce Trail at home, this was a goat path as a comparison, 13 km of nothing but up and down, and quite slippery in places. I remembered my motorcycle ride as mild compared to this.

The other things that happens is that 3 of the local tribal women joined us as we left Sapa. They were helpful, in helping us down some of the slippery sections.
After 3 hours we arrived in a small village for lunch. At this point the women that had been with us suddenly started to sell us local wares. By this time you have built up a relationship and you feel obligated to make at least a purchase from each. At the lunch spot "our" ladies were joined by another dozen others, all selling stuff
"You buy from me?" are the words heard most often.
After lunch our ladies left us, but 4 others took their place. It was quite amusing. I was "adopted" by this 43 old woman, who followed me for the next 3 hours. She would tell me where to step, she would point out the edible plants along the way, and feed me "goodies". The whole time she would give me a travelogue, pointing to various sights along the way. The only problem it was all in Vietnamese, and I had no idea what she was talking about. Whenever we reached a village another dozen or so women would appear and "You buy from me" would be heard many many times.
We finally arrived at our homestay, and I made my obligatory purchase. I have bought some strange things.
The day was actually wonderful. There were few clouds, the sun was shining, and the temperature was comfortable. The scenery was spectacular.
The evening was very nice. We had a good dinner, and the Bulgarian couple and  I had some great discussions. A night to remember.
The next morning, first thing, my Vietnamese "mother" re-appeared, to sell me more stuff.
I finally said good bye, and we finished our hike. At our last lunch, I counted 14 women surrounding us, trying to sell. I resisted.
After we returned to Sapa I splurged, and rented a room for the 2 hours before we left for the trainstation. 2.50$, well worth spent.
We took the mini bus back to the train station and had our "Final Dinner", as it said on the ticket. I spent another dollar to have my shoes cleaned; they were absolutely filthy, and the guy did an amazing job.
I had another nice dinner conversation, and we promised to keep in touch.
The train ride back to Hanoi was not as pleasant as the train ride there, bur I think it was due to a sore body.
Anyway, back to Hanoi.
Till the next time
Ralf