Jordan April 9

How the time flies.
My hotel in Umm Qais was basic. My room was clean, the AC worked, the bed was fine.
The bathroom was not. Not quite as bad as some of the ones in India. The was a definite "Eau de sewage" present. No way I was taking a shower. I only used it for the necessities. 
Breakfast was included. I didn't expect much, but even that was an overestimation. It consisted of a cup of tea. There were two middle-aged Jordanians present, and one came over and presented me with a freshly baked, still warm, flat bread and a piece of cheese. The only cheese I have seen here is the "Smiling cow" one, the one that comes in little triangles. Pseudo cheese.
Very nice of them.
At 8 I set off for the ruins of the ancient city of Gadara. Jesus performed a miracle here. It was quite an important city at one time. Romans were great engineers. To supply the Roman settlements in the area they built 170 km of channels, with 106 km of tunnels, 1.3 m wide. They were lined to cut down on water loss. Some were 70 m below the surface. The roads here are the original Roman roads. More than 1600 years, and no potholes.
One of the interesting things about the Roman structures in Gadara is that basalt was used. This is a dark hard rock, quite attractive.
My timing was perfect. When I got there, at about 8, no one was there. By the time I left, at about 10, school buses full of kids arrived.
I had a nice cup of Arabian coffee looking over the valley. I'm getting to like this coffee. To be honest it doesn't really taste like coffee, as we know it. It is very strong, bitter, and the cardamom flavour is strong. One of those will keep you going for a while. The way it's made is interesting. They pour some very finely ground coffee, with the cardamom in it, into a small metal pot, which has a handle. Then they pour hot water in. There is also a large round container, like a very large wok, which is filled with sand that has been heated to a high temperature. They then move the pot in the sand, to superheat it. You can see the coffee boiling. This is then poured into a cup and served. It is very hot to start with. You also have to wait for the coffee grounds to settle , unless you like brown sludge. There is no filter. As I said it is an acquired taste.
The views at Umm Qais are great. The only problem is they all talk about seeing many things, on a clear day. There is no such thing as a clear day in Jordan. It is always hazy, I think it's pollution.
It does give you a bit of a chill to realize you are actually looking at the Jordan River, the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights. All those names that suddenly have a new meaning. A nice feeling.
The scenery is lovely, lots of rolling hills.
I took a local minibus to Irbid in the afternoon. After this it's off to Amman, and then back home.
Irbid is a large city known for its university. Otherwise not a lot to see or do.
I have noticed quite a difference between Madaba, Aqaba, and the northern part of Jordan. I haven't seen one liquor store in Jarash, Umm Qais or Irbid.
The other thing that stands out is that women are not seen on the street as much, in the north. Every little store, and there are hundreds is staffed by men. Men wander the streets, women only to shop and go home. The only working women I have seen were in my hotels in the south. And they were working the desks. The housecleaning staff is all male. I have a seen small number of women drivers, but they are the exception.
My hotel is very nice, and it's near the university. You do see a lot more women in this area, and the majority dress western style. 
I found a neat little bakery that makes pita and flat bread. The flat bread is large, I would say almost half a metre in diameter. They use it as wraps, or just tear off bits and dip it into hummus or yogurt. This bread is used like a spoon, you dip it into the stew. 
This bakery does it the old fashioned way. There is a brick oven shaped like a large ball, with one opening. The baker sticks the dough against the inside wall, and when it's done it falls away, and he catches it. A hot job, but the result is delicious.
It started to get hot again, over 30. I was talking to Sandy, and she said its -15 in Dundas. Quite the difference.
Have fun
Ralf