Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Jan 8 My last day in Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer's fort is different than any of the others I have seen. The forts in Agra, Jaipur, and Bikaner have all been turned into tourist sites. At one time they were all functioning forts, and they were mainly fortified cities. Once the British controlled the country, these forts remained in the private hands of the local princes. They started to use them as private residences and built palaces within the fortifications. In Agra, for example there were more than a dozen palaces in the fort.
Jaisalmer is different in that it is still a functioning town within the fortified walls. There are 3000 inhabitants living inside the walls, with numerous hotels, restaurants, and shops. There is one palace, and several Jain temples.
The fort sits on top of a triangular hill, with steep side all around. I would guess the perimeter is about 2 to 3 km.
All the buildings are made of sand stone, which is easily carved. The carvings in the temples and the houses are fantastic. Unbelievably beautiful, in their honey colours.
Another nice thing is that the lanes and streets are very narrow, they haven't changed for 400 years, so there is no car traffice, just the occasional motorcycle. It is actually peaceful and laid back. It's the first place where I have been able to browse without someone on your back.
I think I mentioned that there is a German bakery. I have shopped there every day; they make lovely brown bread buns, and cinnamon rolls.
The outside of the walls is full of shops of every kind. The problem is that they are all very small, and they all basically sell the same things. No variety. For example I have only seen one store that sold butter, and it was a1 lb size, not too convenient for me.
I should mention there are lots of stalls selling fruits and vegetables. Bananas, pineapples, apples, papayas, oranges, and grapes. I haven't seen a head of lettuce, or peppers, except for chili peppers, and beans. Some stalls will sell a fruit salad in a bowl. They have a variety of fruit, but also cucumbers and radishes. It took me about a week to try one, but I have been eating them regularly since.
Luckily I haven't had a case of Delhi Belly yet.
Tomorrow I am off to Jodhpur.
I should mention another "Indian" moment. I was at a restauranr in Bikaner, and one of the items on the menu was "Diet Cock"
Now there is an idea whose time has come.
Till later

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