Thursday, May 9, 2013

May 9 Day 2 in Wroclaw

Today was not a day for the easily discouraged. I had planned to take a bus to Jawor at 9:30. The lady at the information bureau had told me that these local buses leave from a station behind the main bus station. I got to the main station, but could not find the one I was looking for. I went to the information booth, at the bus station, and was told there are no buses to Jawor. I went outside and walked around again. I had asked a few people on the street, and no-one knew of this station. The lady at the info station suggested a taxi, at 150 dollars. I declined.
Somewhat frustrated I walked back into town, about 20 minutes. I tried to find out if there were tours there, they are World Heritage sites. No luck.
I tried another info bureau, and she told me that there were definitely private mini buses to the towns, and she had a more specific map of the area. There isn't an actual station; these mini buses just line up on a road. It turns out I was less than 100 m, earlier today.
Some people would consider quitting, but I am not one of those.
I trudged back, just to make sure I would find the place tomorrow. I did find the buses, and one was leaving for Swidnica within minutes. Rather than wait till tomorrow, and do both churches, I decide to hop on.
Success!
Now, about these Peace Churches. The reason they are called that is that, after the Peace of Westphalia, in 1645, the Catholic emperor was generous, and allowed the Lutheran population to build three churches. There were conditions. These churches were not allowed a steeple or a bell tower. They had to be made of nothing but wood, no nails, AND construction had to be completed in one year.
The tolerance of this man is overwhelming, isn't it?
The amazing thing is that three of these churches were built. One burned down, but the other two, one in Swidnica, the other in Jawor are still standing.
I visualized Swidnica as a small village, I would get off the bus, the church would be there, I would have a leisure visit, capped off  by a beer, before I returned home.
DREAMER. It turns out that Swidnica is a good sized town, and it took me half an hour, and asking several people for directions, before I finally did arrive.
Was it worth it?
Definitely, the church is fantastic! They completed the structure in one year, and that is impressive; imagine building a four story building, all out of wood, with no nails. After the structure was finished they spent a lot more time decorating the interior. 
It is absolutely unique, and one of the most beautiful structures I have seen.
The sad part is it is almost unknown. I was there for over an hour, and a tour was just leaving as I arrived. After that I was the only person in the church that holds over a thousand.
I am sure if you google "Peace Churches Poland" you will be able to view them.
Another bonus. On the way back to the bus, I stopped at a local market, and they had freshly picked local strawberries. 3.30 dollars for 1 kilo. They are delicious. I hope my stomach can handle all that I have eaten.

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